Gorkhi-Terelj

The five-day journey to the steppes departed from Ulaanbaatar to the first stop - a place which I found quite accessible and convenient for tourists, yet still harmoniously blended with nature - Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. Midway through the route, we paid a visit to Genghis Khan Statue Complex. Noteworthily both of these locations are still within the territory of Ulaanbaatar, close to the border with Töv province.

Genghis Khan Statue Complex

After visiting the Winter Palace of the Bogd Khan, we set off towards the outskirts of Ulaanbaatar.

Although I had expected the scenery to be breathtaking, I couldn’t be less astonished as the green hue of steppe gradually unfolded before my eyes, while the city buildings faded into the distance. For a city dweller, witnessing herds of livestock leisurely grazing in the vast, verdant landscape felt like witnessing a true wonder.

Our car followed Dunjingarav Street along the sacred Tuul River of the Mongolian people before turning into AH3 Asian Highway, the route leading to the statue complex and Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. One of the little joys of this road trip was that the driver often stopped by supermarkets and convenience stores to grab some snacks, and honestly Mongolian supermarkets are very spacious and spotless, with countless varieties of goods fill up the shelves of confectionary and alcoholic beverages.

The car turned onto A0501 Road and continued a bit further to reach the destination. The distance from the capital center to the complex is only about 55km, yet it’s enough to leave me in awe as the landscape rushed past the car window.

And in the distance we could see the towering metal statue of Genghis Khan standing proudly amidst the boundless grasslands.

The cool breeze gently brushed against my cheeks under the beautifully soft sunlight of Mongolia’s late summer…

Departing to Gorkhi-Terelj

It’s nearing noon that we’re retracing our earlier route then turning onto Terelj Road to head towards the national park. Dainty pristine clouds were drifting above the picturesque granite mountains ahead.

Despite being the same road at the same scene, each direction of travel always brings us a fresh perspective on what we see.

We stopped by a restaurant shortly after turning onto Terelj Road. That’s also my first culinary experience of the trip. The restaurant was inside a traditional yurt, while flags of Mongolia and South Korea were displayed outside - a clear proof of how popular Korean visitors are to Mongolia.

I had already hinted that I wouldn’t be eating lambs, so my guide ordered me a massive plate of khuushuur filled with beef - the Mongolian-style fried dumplings. But I was even more surprised when my guide and driver ordered a bigger plate of khorkhog featuring hefty portions of lamb. Two things became clear to me throughout the trip: Mongolians eat a lot of meat, likely to keep themselves warm, and their dishes tend to be mild in flavor. To suit my taste, I had to dip my food in soy sauce - and interestingly Vietnamese brands dominate the market for soy sauce and chili sauce here. If you’re a vegetarian, you might find it quite challenging to maintain your diet during the trip.

Turtle Rock

Our car started moving towards the national park. The journey wasn’t too long yet the landscape was incredibly diverse, from the lush valley of the Tuul River - a rare sight in the middle of the otherwise flat, grassy steppe, to the towering mountain ranges barricading the horizon.

Reaching the campsite, we stopped by Turtle Rock (Melkhii Khad) - a rock formation that perfectly lives up to its name, gracefully rising by the roadside. This is really a well-known landmark that always appears when searching for information about the national park. More than just an ordinary rock, this is also a sacred site where my guide often comes to pray for good fortune, relax and recharge.

A perfect time for midday break with an ice cream in the chilly air, while watching the two-humped camels used to carry tourists around.

Aryabal Meditation Temple

We then continued to Aryabal Meditation Temple, where visitors must climb 108 steps to reach the top. Though a bit exhausting, the effort is well rewarded with a wonderful panoramic view encompassing layers upon layers of mountains, nestled between them is a winding road weaving through the valley, and Turtle Rock standing prominently in the far-off landscape.

The green tamarack trees scattered across the rocky mountains right before me would turn golden as autumn arrived and laden with snow during Mongolia’s harsh winter.

The Campsite

Finally it’s time to rest as we arrived at Khüslen Camp - which means ‘wish’. The campsites all consist of cozy, well-equipped yurts with electric heaters and wifi. The only exception is that the toilet-bathroom area is separate from the yurts, meaning you need to brave the cold for the walk back after a shower. Thankfully I was traveling while the weather was still warm, so it wasn’t much of an issue; but just two weeks later when temperature would drop below zero, things might be different.

It’s a familiar feeling to have an entire yurt for myself. Inside a yurt there’re typically three to four beds arranged around the space, at the center stands a wood stove or heater and a dim light. At Khüslen everything seems thoughtfully fitted, even allowing you to sit and chill on the patio in front of the yurt. The doors are usually quite low, so be careful not to bump your head.

The camp offered a superb view facing the western mountains, where the sunset gradually faded from orange to purple before disappearing completely. A truly peaceful scene. The campsites here, despite having a plenty of yurts, weren’t too crowded, so I could perfectly have quiet moments of solitude, just me and the scenery.

As dusk settled and the wind picked up, this tropical man began to feel shivering. To reach the dining area, I had to walk over to the camp across the way. Dinner this time was rice and beef accompanied with a small portion of vegetables, and the same as last time, the food was quite mild in flavor and without soup; Mongolians typically pair their meals with a cup of tea to warm themselves.

The First Starry Night

What I anticipated had finally arrived - witnessing the starry skies of Mongolia. The nights were breathtaking with clear cloudless sky, nearly untouched by light pollution.

I carried my tripod out to the dirt road in front of the camp and aimed my camera at the mountains ahead. There’re some voices echoing and the warm glow of campfire in the distance from a group of Korean travelers, making the solitude feel much less overwhelming. It wasn’t a comfortable experience - the cold wind bit at my skin, and insects nipped at my ankles, as I was navigating in the darkness to find a stable ground and avoiding unexpected obstacles.

Each time the camera shutter clicked, I was in awe of what it captured - the mountain glowing with a soft halo and the universe overflowing with stars. This was a sight a city dweller could never truly witness and admire.

And that’s the end of a long day of travel, filled with countless gorgeous images to cherish.